A French cruller is a ring of choux pastry piped through a star tip, then fried or baked until it puffs into a hollow, ridged shell that shatters when you bite it and collapses almost weightlessly. Learning how to make crullers at home takes about two and a half hours, most of it waiting on the stove and the fridge, and the only genuinely demanding part is the dough.
That dough is the same cooked pastry used for éclairs and cream puffs, and it is the step that trips up confident bakers. Everything after the eggs go in is straightforward piping and a few minutes in hot oil. If you can stir flour into boiling liquid and beat in eggs until a spoon drags a clean line through the dough, you can make crullers in your kitchen this weekend.
Table of Contents
- What You Need for How to Make Crullers at Home
- Step-by-Step: How to Make Crullers at Home
- 1. Boil the liquid and stir in the flour
- 2. Dry the panade on the stovetop
- 3. Beat in the eggs one at a time, the step that decides how to make crullers at home work
- 4. Pipe even rings with a star tip
- 5. Fry at 350 F in small batches and drain on a rack
- 6. Glaze them warm, or roll them in cinnamon sugar
- Common Mistakes and how to fix them
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusion
What You Need for How to Make Crullers at Home
Crullers are not made from the yeasted or cake-style batter you use for a classic ring doughnut. The dough is pâte à choux, a cooked paste that gets its lift entirely from steam: the flour is cooked on the stovetop first, eggs are added to that hot paste, and the moisture trapped inside flashes to steam in the fryer or oven and blows the pastry open from the inside. That is why a cruller is so airy and why it never needs yeast or baking powder.
Because the same dough makes éclairs, cream puffs and profiteroles, this is a technique worth learning properly. Get the paste right once and those other pastries fall out of the same panade for the rest of your life.
Choux dough
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) water
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) whole milk
- 6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, cut into cubes
- 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
- 1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour, sifted
- 3 to 4 large eggs, room temperature
Vanilla glaze
- 1 cup (120 g) powdered sugar, sifted
- 2 tablespoons milk or water, plus more as needed
- 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- A pinch of salt to cut the sweetness
The egg quantity is not fixed, and that trips people up. Whether you need three or four depends on how dry your flour is and how long you dried the paste. Use the four-egg figure as your starting assumption and trust the dough test rather than the count.
Equipment
A heavy 4-quart pot with 2 to 3 inches of oil, a digital thermometer clipped to the pot rim, a pastry bag with a large open star tip, a silicone mat or parchment-lined sheet pan, and a wire rack set over a baking sheet for draining. A whisk, a wooden spoon, and a rubber spatula to scrape the panade out of the pot will also earn their keep.
You do not need a countertop deep fryer. What you do need is enough oil depth that the crullers float rather than sit on the bottom of the pan, and a pot deep enough that the oil does not come creeping up the sides when you lower a wet ring in. A Dutch oven is ideal. A shallow skillet is the one to avoid: it holds barely half an inch of oil, so the temperature collapses every time you add dough, the pastry fries unevenly on its underside, and you end up with greasy, flat rings instead of crisp ones. If a skillet is all you have, fry fewer crullers at a time and watch the temperature closely.
No pastry bag? Fill a sturdy zip-top freezer bag, twist the top closed, and snip a small corner with kitchen scissors. The ridges will be slightly less defined but the dough behaves the same.
Timing: 20 minutes to mix and cook the paste, 10 to 15 minutes to beat in the eggs, 45 minutes of chilling, 5 minutes per batch in the fryer, and 15 minutes to glaze. Yield is about 10 to 12 crullers.
Step-by-Step: How to Make Crullers at Home
1. Boil the liquid and stir in the flour
Put the water, milk, butter, sugar and salt in a medium saucepan and set it over medium heat. Stir occasionally with a whisk or wooden spoon until the butter melts and the mixture reaches a full boil with bubbles breaking at the surface, which takes 3 to 4 minutes.
Take the pan off the heat and add the sifted flour all at once. Stir hard with the wooden spoon to mash it into the hot liquid. It will seize into a stiff, ragged mass that looks nothing like dough for the first minute. Keep stirring until it comes together into a smooth, thick paste, about a minute more.
Why cook the flour at all? Raw flour has water bound up in its starch granules, and the eggs you add later would only sit in that moisture instead of forming structure. Cooking the paste drives that water off as steam, which is exactly the steam that will later inflate your crullers.
2. Dry the panade on the stovetop
Return the pan to medium-low heat and keep stirring, scraping the bottom and the sides, for 2 to 3 more minutes. This is the most-skipped step in most recipes and it is the one that decides whether your dough spreads into a puddle or holds a ridge.
You are looking for three cues at once: the paste pulls away from the sides of the pan in a clean film, it feels noticeably lighter and less wet under the spoon, and no more steam is rising off the surface. Experienced bakers in baking communities call this last one the test: if you can still see vapor, the panade is too wet. A minute of extra cooking here saves you from splitting crullers later.
Pour the paste onto a clean work surface or a silicone mat and let it cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Adding eggs to paste hot enough to steam cooks them on contact and scrambles the dough. The paste should feel warm, not hot, and hold its shape in a mound when you leave it alone.
3. Beat in the eggs one at a time, the step that decides how to make crullers at home work
Put the paste back in the pan, add the first egg, and beat with a wooden spoon or stand mixer for 30 seconds until it disappears. Add the second egg and beat again. Keep going one at a time.
Add eggs in three or four separate additions rather than all at once. Bakers on r/Baking and r/AskCulinary point out that the small additions give you time to see how thirsty the paste is, and the last egg is usually the difference between a dough that pipes and a dough that runs.
Test the dough once it looks about right by dragging the spoon across the bottom of the pan. If the paste parts and leaves a clean line that holds its shape for a second before closing, you are done. If the line fills in immediately, the dough is too wet, so add another egg. If the dough is tearing or looks dry and crumbly, you have gone too far; the fix is to add a splash of water and beat it in, a tablespoon at a time.
That spoon-drag test is the checkpoint that experienced home bakers cite most often. Once you pass it, the rest of the recipe is forgiving.
At this stage the dough will pull away from the spoon in a thick, slow ribbon. It should look soft and slightly glossy, not tacky like pizza dough and not stiff like biscuit dough.
4. Pipe even rings with a star tip

Fill the pastry bag about two-thirds full and fit a large open star tip, the kind with a wide, flat opening. Hold the bag at roughly a 45-degree angle rather than straight down, which gives you a steadier squeeze and a cleaner start and stop on each ring.
On a silicone mat or parchment, pipe a ring about 3 inches across. Keep the tip touching the surface as you start, spiral into the center, then lift away slowly as you finish. The classic cruller is one loose coil, and it works because the strips push into each other and seal on contact.
Leave at least 1 inch of space between rings. Rings that touch during the second rise fuse together, and when they hit hot oil that fused blob cracks and splits. For the same reason, keep the dough strips even in width. A pizza wheel or a sharp knife gives you 3/4-inch-wide strips cut straight down the line, and uniform width means the middle of every strip cooks at the same rate as its edges, which is what keeps the centers tender instead of gummy.
Repeat until all the dough is used, then let the rings sit at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes while you heat the oil. They should look puffy and a little slack, not domed. If you over-proof them here, they will deflate in the fryer, a collapse that gets blamed on the dough when it was really the wait.
You can also make these ahead. Once the rings are piped, refrigerate them on the sheet pan for up to a day, covered so they cannot dry out, and let them come to room temperature while the oil heats. Straight from a cold fridge they will deflate in the fryer; warm, room-temperature rings puff properly.
5. Fry at 350 F in small batches and drain on a rack

Heat 2 to 3 inches of a neutral oil such as canola, peanut or vegetable in your heavy pot to 350 F (175 C). Clip the thermometer to the rim so you can read it without juggling the pot. While it heats, lay out your rack over a baking sheet and have the finished cinnamon sugar or a bowl ready, because the crullers are best glazed within a few minutes of draining.
Lower two or three rings into the oil at a time, and lower them away from you, gently, away from your body. A wet ring landing flat can spit. They should hit the surface and start bubbling steadily right away; if the oil roils violently, it is too hot, and if nothing much happens, it is too cool.
Do not move them for about a minute. The crust needs to set before you touch it, and this is the second big reason crullers split: nudging a pastry that has not formed a shell lets the still-soft sides stick to the utensil and tear when you lift it away. If one bursts, the fix is to lower the oil a few degrees and cook in smaller batches, which keeps the temperature from dropping when a cold ring hits.
Turn each cruller once at about 90 seconds with a spider or slotted spoon, working from the outside edge. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes total, until it is deep golden brown all over and floats easily. A few seconds of resting on the rack also finishes any residual cooking.
Watch the thermometer between batches, and let the oil come back to 350 F before adding more. This is why later batches often disappoint: the second and third batches are almost always paler and flatter than the first, not because the dough changed but because the oil never recovered its heat. Leave room for half the pieces you think you can fit and let each one lower separately. Crowding drops the temperature faster.
Set the drained crullers on the rack rather than a paper towel, so steam escapes from underneath. Piled on a towel, the bottoms go soft in minutes.
Once the dough is made, the oven is an option too. Bake at 400 F (200 C) on a silicone mat for 12 to 15 minutes, never opening the door in the first 10; a temperature swing is the leading cause of choux collapsing in the oven. Many people mist the rings with water and add a cup of water to a pan in the oven to keep the humidity high. Baked crullers are good, just a little denser and less blistered than fried ones, and they take 25 minutes rather than 6.
6. Glaze them warm, or roll them in cinnamon sugar
For the vanilla glaze, whisk 1 cup of powdered sugar with 1 to 2 tablespoons of milk and the vanilla until smooth. It should fall off the spoon in a slow ribbon; if it is too thick to pour, add a splash more liquid. Do not make it thinner than that, or it will soak into the pastry and turn the crust damp within minutes.
Dip each warm cruller top-down into the glaze, let the excess drip off for a second or two, and set it on the rack. Glaze sticks best while the pastry is still warm, and the sugar sets within a few minutes into a thin shell that feels like the real thing.
For a cinnamon-sugar finish, combine 1/2 cup granulated sugar with 2 tablespoons cinnamon in a shallow bowl. Roll the warm crullers in it right after they drain. Do this within 5 minutes: the sugar crystals only bond while the surface has a little residual warmth and oil, and after that they slide off into the bowl.
Other quick variations: whisk 2 tablespoons of cocoa powder into the powdered sugar for a chocolate glaze, or warm 1/4 cup of honey with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and brush it on for a thinner honey-lemon sheen.
Serve them the same day. Crullers go from crisp to chewy in a few hours, and they are at their best within about 30 minutes of the fryer.
Common Mistakes and how to fix them
They split open or burst in the fryer. This is the most common cruller problem and it usually has three causes. The dough was too wet, so the paste did not have enough structure to hold the expanding steam: it should have been dried longer and the spoon-drag test should have been checked. The oil was too hot, so the outside set and hardened before the inside finished expanding: aim for 350 F and recheck the thermometer. Or the pieces were crowded and the temperature crashed mid-batch. Fix all three and the splitting stops.
They came out flat, like pancakes. Almost always underproofing, and often piping them straight from the fridge. The rings need that 20 to 30 minute rest after piping, in a warm room, until they look puffy and slightly slack. A second cause is over-mixing the paste, which breaks down the structure and gives you a flat sheet instead of a puffing shell. Stop stirring once the eggs are in and the dough looks right.
The centers are dense or gummy. Two different problems with the same symptom. Raw and gummy inside means the piece was too thick, the oil was too cool, or the pastry was moved too soon and the cooking never evened out. Dense throughout means a dry, crumbly dough: you ran out of eggs and the paste was over-dried, which is what that final split and burn panade does to it. Cut the rings a little narrower and press more firmly in the egg stage.
They deflate or sink after cooking. Either the oil was under 325 F, so the steam built slowly and the shell collapsed before it set, or the rings went into the hot oil straight from the fridge. Both give you a collapsed, greasy shell. Room-temperature rings and a thermometer solve it.
They came out misshapen or lopsided. The dough was too soft to hold a ridge at piping time, usually because it was warm. Chilled dough pipes cleanly; warm dough smears. Also keep your wrist steady and squeeze slowly, and lift the tip as you finish each ring so it does not dig into the previous strip.
They were greasy. Oil temperature below 325 F soaks the pastry before it can crisp, and stacking the finished crullers traps steam underneath. Drain on a rack in a single layer and give them a few minutes apart from each other.
Two habits that make the biggest difference overall: dry the panade until no steam is rising, and add the eggs in three or four batches while watching the dough rather than the clock. Everything else is fine-tuning.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a deep fryer to make crullers at home?
No. A 4-quart Dutch oven or heavy pot with 2 to 3 inches of oil works as well as a countertop fryer and is what most home bakers use. Clip a thermometer to the rim so you can hold 350 F (175 C) steady, and leave enough depth that the oil does not climb the sides. A shallow skillet is the only real problem, because too little oil means the temperature falls every time you add dough.
Can crullers be baked instead of deep-fried?
Yes, and they are good. Bake piped rings at 400 F (200 C) on a silicone mat for 12 to 15 minutes, misting them with water and keeping a pan of water in the oven for humidity. Do not open the door in the first 10 minutes; the temperature drop causes collapse. Baked crullers are slightly denser and less blistered than fried ones, but the same choux dough and the same glaze work unchanged.
Why are my homemade crullers dense or gummy inside?
If the center is raw and gummy, the piece was too thick, the oil was below 325 F, or you moved it too early for the cooking to even out. If the whole pastry is dense and dry, the dough was over-dried, which happens when you add too few eggs. Cut narrower strips, press more firmly in the spoon-drag test, and hold 350 F with a thermometer for 2 to 3 minutes per side.
Can I shape the crullers a day before frying?
Yes, pipe the rings, cover the pan so they cannot dry out, and refrigerate for up to a day. Bring them to room temperature, about 20 to 30 minutes, before frying. Rings straight from a cold fridge will deflate and come out greasy. Keep them a single layer with space between them so they do not fuse, and fry straight from the fridge after 30 minutes for the crispiest result.
How should I store and reheat leftover crullers?
Store them in a single layer or loosely covered in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 6 hours, and do not refrigerate them, which softens the crust overnight. Reheat in a 350 F (175 C) oven for 5 to 8 minutes on a rack. Skip the microwave; it steams the pastry and leaves it soft. For longer storage, freeze unglazed and crisp them again in the oven from frozen.
Conclusion
Start with the dough, not the fryer. Get the panade dry enough that no steam is rising, cool it to a warm temperature, and add the eggs one at a time until the spoon-drag test passes. Everything after that is threading a star tip, holding 350 F, and having the glaze ready when the first batch drains.
Those two checkpoints are what separate crullers that puff into hollow, crisp rings from ones that sink or split, and they are also the same two steps behind every good eclair you will ever make. The first time you work through how to make crullers at home, the dough is the part to slow down on. After that, it is a recipe you will keep making.


